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Tutorial: How to crimp connectors, strip wire and use heat shrink.

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Mar 16, 2013

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Tutorial: How to crimp connectors, strip wire and use heat shrink.
Tutorial: How to crimp connectors, strip wire and use heat shrink. thumb Tutorial: How to crimp connectors, strip wire and use heat shrink. thumb Tutorial: How to crimp connectors, strip wire and use heat shrink. thumb

Transcription

  • Oh
  • yeah
  • yeah
  • Oh
  • yeah
  • tester . code . UK
  • hello YouTube is and welcome to this tutorial on crimping connectors pass a
  • better heat shrink the use of tools to strip wire and how best to actually get
  • your wire properly into your connectors so it makes a good sound connection and
  • is mechanically strong as well so that's what I hope to achieve in this video I'm
  • going to go through some of the mistakes that I have certainly made in the past
  • with connecting connectors and wires together
  • i'm also going to point down below to a very good reference and NASA reference
  • which will be online forum for discussion
  • for those of you who might have bitter pause wisdom after seeing this video and
  • after you've seen this video if you think you have some important advice or
  • a better way of doing things
  • certainly do constant a person comment below or even posting a video response
  • showing how you think it should be done or even showing where it's gone wrong
  • because that would be really handy too
  • but anyway let's get down to the bench right so invariably if you're working
  • with either electrical or electronics there comes a time when it's really
  • handy to have a crimp on connector to for full a certain function
  • you may want to have a wire that can go on to a battery terminal
  • you may want to join too wise with either Spade connectors on two batteries
  • so there are loads of uses but if it's done incorrectly things can go awry
  • case in point here i have a homemade fuse holder and an automated few that i
  • use in their system eyes using to monitor current and voltage for my solar
  • panel and things can go very wrong quickly and the this could result in a
  • fire
  • so that's what you want to be real so what I hope to cover in this video is
  • just to give a demonstration of some of the tools which might be handy and a
  • demonstration of cut some of the wiring and the crimps and the best practice
  • that i know of in terms of joining a crimp connector to a piece of wire and
  • what you need to be aware of
  • now we're going to pick up because even this piece of why that i have in my head
  • which is a fairly large piece of wire there are potentially issues with this
  • connector and the way it's been done on this wire but we'll cover that off but
  • let's start off with the piece of wire and actually stripping it right so what
  • you probably end up with in is you have a piece of wire and you have a connector
  • a crimp connector that you want to attach to your end of wire so that you
  • can either connected to a battery or have you
  • so the first thing we need to do is strip the piece of wire said you got the
  • conducting expose second go into the actual crimp connector itself
  • ultimately this is what we want to end up with is a the installation being
  • cleanly removed with all your conductors intact
  • so you've got the maximum cross-sectional area of your conductor
  • that goes into your crimp so that you don't lose the amp icity the ability for
  • the wire to carry a good parent without any issues of resistance or heat while
  • it's in the crimp connector
  • not only that if you don't do this correctly and you don't have enough
  • conductor hear your actual mechanical holding of this into the crimp connector
  • can be an issue
  • and believe it or not crimping can be a far better solution than soldiering
  • so you get a very good strong mechana connect connection and electrical
  • connection if it's done correctly right so let's look at how we potentially
  • strip this wire now then i'm going to show you the tools at you might
  • potentially consider I've used them in the past
  • you might get a pair of pliers and you've got the cutters and what we
  • invariably try and do is get the catters and trying to strip the wire that when
  • invariably I probably don't have to show you what's gonna happen when you do that
  • you invariably start cutting a few the conductors and using shards all over the
  • place
  • couple of debt . so danger there shards are big copper like this if they fall
  • into something you work a project that you're working on nearby or intern
  • appliance they can cause a short and that's one issue and I'll see then they
  • don't provide enough of a conductor to properly carry the current that you
  • require
  • then you can end up with a cheaper crimping tool like this one over here
  • and as you can see it actually says why stripper over here and it has the little
  • holes where you can go and strip the wire so what you would do is obviously
  • place the wire in there
  • squeeze it and then remove the covering but invariably with these types of
  • strippers if you use and carefully that can be fine but you can still be a
  • challenge do it correctly to remove the actual installation from the wire itself
  • so what I have found to be a really valuable tool is to go and find yourself
  • a good kind of what i'd call automated why stripper
  • it has a mechanical grip to grip the wire over here as you squeeze down
  • it's got the correct size holes and then you use it and it strips off the
  • insulation so let's just give that a bash
  • so if i put it there I know I've got to use the biggest hole then you want to
  • test this if you're not to show the whole tested make sure that it works
  • correctly so a GCS to put in it bites down
  • it's also gripping the wire the back here and as I do it
  • there you go it's pulled off the insulation
  • there's no free wise which have been broken off in there
  • I've got all my conductors intact ready to use so i can really recommend this
  • for one for doing it correctly for two of you got a lot of why that you're
  • stripping it becomes a pain trying to do it do it mechanically with a pair of
  • pliers or side cutters
  • this makes life a lot easier right so now we get to the next point where we've
  • got a crimp connector
  • I've got my wire which I have nicely stripped and now I want two off c place
  • it in there and crimp it together but I've got a slight problem
  • my conductor seems to be bigger than the actual gauge or the opening on my crimp
  • connector now how many times would you try and
  • twist that on to force it in to get it in there and then try and crimp it or
  • even and I've done this you can see what happens it starts to birdcage you get a
  • thinner piece of conductor that goes into the crimp connector you potentially
  • have weisberg caging up on the side here which can act as a short hazard if
  • they're out on the side and invariably what can be done is you get a set of
  • strippers and you try and strip out some of that extra wire to like to fit into
  • your connector and the two issues there for one you've obviously reduce the
  • current carrying capability of this piece of wire and potentially
  • mechanically you may have an issue with how well it's held inside your connector
  • so you do want to sign find the right size connector
  • this one's too small right so that was too small so I've now found a nice beefy
  • solid legand crimp connector and it certainly does have a nice gauge opening
  • and look my conductor fits in there very nicely but it's a little loose so I tell
  • you what
  • there's a practice solution to this let me show you it doesn't mean I have to
  • strip a little more of the installation of four wire but let's see how we go
  • so first off there is one risk now when i'm trying to strip the wire the second
  • time and not doing it correctly
  • I'm potentially going to lose some of those conductors which are really
  • important
  • so my idea is that I can i should be able to just fall this over and it
  • should create a far tighter fit
  • now there's a couple of risks with doing this if I really mechanically been this
  • and squeeze it
  • I know I'll get it inside the slag but that potentially doesn't create the
  • proper full fit inside the actual crimp connector itself and it may mechanically
  • compromise the actual tight fit inside here so that you certain you don't want
  • to do you also don't want to go and fold the copper over the insulation and let's
  • say we've got a bigger leg like this
  • so you go and fold it over so that you can then for sit inside and use actual
  • insulation on the wire as part of the holding because now you've reduced the
  • surface area of the conductor that's actually going to attach the inside of
  • this connector and again potentially compromised the mechanical grip
  • once you've actually crimp this so it's something you certainly don't want to do
  • also the one important point whether it's with a leg like this if you get any
  • bird caging and these wires poking out the bottom again
  • huge risk for shorting something else especially if you got legs close
  • together and these are dangling about like that
  • you certainly don't want to do that right so I've gone and found a crimp
  • connector which I think matches perfectly this piece of wire if we look
  • inside the gate seems to be about right
  • if I insert the actual wire and conductor it goes in without bird caging
  • it seems to have a nice snack fit as you can see what you do want to achieve with
  • this isn't it is to ensure that your
  • conduct it does poke out just a little bit on the side in the front end of your
  • connector
  • you don't want you to extend too much or auras going to interfere with the
  • connection over here and that's an issue and particularly i'll show you just now
  • with the battery like connectors if they extend too much and use putting us on a
  • battery you're not going to get the full mechanical contact and that's electrical
  • contact when you actually got a connected to let their battery now then
  • I know that this wire is six in terms of the cross-sectional area
  • it's six millimeters squared so in terms of a gauge it sits around nine or ten
  • now then
  • so the one thing to look for even though this mechanically does fit in nicely
  • one wants to be sure that this can is off see made for that gauge and can
  • carry the current because this can carry a fair amount of current
  • so what you want to look for is on the connector itself
  • you can select these connectors by the gauge why they're designed for and if
  • you can read on the bottom that actually says 12 to 10 so I'm just within the
  • limits of the the wire fitting in here and being out to be mechanically held
  • correctly and being able to carry the current load on yes that's something you
  • want to look for you want to look for the gauge that the American wire gauge
  • rating on your connectors and ensure that you matching matching up the gauge
  • of wire correctly on to this rights our next chore is to go and crimp use find a
  • crimping tools so you can actually crimp a connector onto this wire now there's a
  • few things to note
  • you also do get the the cheaper tools and fair enough they can work this one
  • happens to be noted in metrics or what its noting here is the size across
  • sectional sighs so four to six millimeters squared which obviously
  • relates to this connector over here
  • there's also color coding as you can see
  • on these tools this tool also color-coded said you can easily match up
  • you can see the yellow connector over there
  • we've got the blue for the smaller cross-sectional area and you can go down
  • to read as well
  • now these tools aren't this one over here
  • does not have a ratchet system so you have to apply a lot of mechanical force
  • and muscle sometimes to try and get something cream together especially with
  • the larger conductors and sometimes that can mean you kind of match things up you
  • don't apply equal pressure or you get tired and you just don't do it correctly
  • so certainly it's very handy getting a wretched tool which can open up you can
  • hear the ratchet you can then place the tool in with the wire and you then crimp
  • it together and as you krimpet a ratchet is holding so even if you're getting
  • tired and you need to release it will still hold it tight you can then
  • continue and finish the actual krumping process
  • so let's give that a bachelor this one so I what I tend to do with this because
  • it can be a bit of a fiddly job
  • if you've obviously got a few hands the one thing you want to note also on this
  • crimp before we put it in there
  • your crimping the top it's got its design for the top to be crimped not the
  • bottom so you cramping from the top to get a good mechanical connection in
  • there
  • so you get a good all-round electrical connection with this as well
  • so on this tool is quite handy it fits in quite nicely in the setting over here
  • I just close it enough so that it's grips it's not being crashed that allows
  • me to free my one hand
  • so then insert the wire as I insert the wire
  • I'm ensuring that it's not going to a bird cage or pull any of the the actual
  • wires back if it is i need to pull it back and correct that it's gone in
  • you can see it at the tip there and I'm not in a position where i can grab this
  • making sure this dance the part I've grabbed it
  • it's now physically held it now I've got a problem I don't have strong hair
  • so if me to crimp this with one hand is an issues I just crimped enough for it
  • not to fall out in the right place i can grab two hands and finish off the
  • process and it only allows you to release once you're done
  • so here we go and what you want to do and check and i'm going to show you this
  • on camera
  • there seems to be a fairly nice even distribution of the cryptic crimping
  • tool on this connector the way it fits into that tool is to ensure that it does
  • crimp and grab in the right places it crimps the actual plastic at the back
  • here so that it's there's a bit of strain relief on the connection and also
  • ensures that it pushes down the actual metal part of the connector to actually
  • mechanically grab that why nicely and you do want to check that once you've
  • got a crimped on you want to give it a good old tag and make sure there's no
  • plan there and that is not going to come off
  • there's a few things you want to be wary of with these smaller legs or connectors
  • and that mechanically sometimes the crimping tool can damage them you can
  • see this one is slightly bent and actually need to be aware of because of
  • its bending your cramps you may not have the right crimp or may not have the
  • right size and that may cause a fatigue or fracture here and that you certainly
  • don't want right now let's have a look at this example this is a fairly hefty
  • piece of cable it would be
  • it's something which is perhaps particularly designed to be used on a DC
  • battery
  • it's 10 millimeters squared so this can probably handle a hundred amps DCMS
  • through this
  • it's also got a silicone coating on it and that's something to be aware of in
  • your why selection because the silicone coating can handle higher temperatures
  • you certainly don't want to be in that situation where you are catering for
  • higher temperatures you want to get the correct gauge for the country handling
  • but silicon certainly does give you a little bit of belts and braces a bit of
  • safety margin
  • now there's a couple issues with this whole setup here as you can see this is
  • a a kind of green and yellow piece of cable and this strictly speaking should
  • be used as an earth because the color but I didn't have I couldn't get hold of
  • a red cable so as you can see i just went stuck a label on yet and called it
  • positive
  • now there's a few issues of that for one someone else Martin might not be easily
  • spot this and realize that it's positive and that could create a bit of an issue
  • - I've used a leg on here which obviously fits but mechanically it's not
  • very strong
  • you can see how can bend it and we've got a fairly heavy piece of wire on here
  • and that invariably can create its own hassles we just want to make sure that
  • for one can this like actually carry that the potential hundred amps that
  • would be passing through here and if this is connected on a battery and it's
  • heavy and this is happening well guess what
  • in time this leg is going to break off also won one method of getting around
  • this issue where I couldn't find the right cave would be still let's a get a
  • good long piece of heat shrink red heat shrink so that identifies that it's the
  • positive cable that might be a bit of a French but might be one we're doing it
  • but you can't see through this heat shrink and there is potentially another
  • problem if someone needs to inspect these legs to make sure they're fine
  • you can see on this one I've got the conductor sitting a bit very on the side
  • there but you have no real easy way of inspecting it and that's where there's a
  • good call for transparent heat shrink
  • so here we go as you can see you do get transparent heat shrink and that is
  • certainly advisable in many situations where you want to have easy inspection
  • of your connections
  • after you've actually put them together allows you to see there's any issue you
  • might have a situation where things are getting hot under here and things are
  • going a right and you're not going to see it because it's happening underneath
  • the heat shrink
  • whereas a good transparent heat shrink will allow you to do that
  • another note
  • some people might think that it's a good idea to get a soldiering iron and solder
  • and 10 the end of the wire to keep it all meet and together before they place
  • it into a connector and krimpet but that actually is a big no-no and the reason
  • behind that is that that hard solder when you put it in yet potentially is
  • going to have little peaks and ridges which you can't even see and it won't
  • make a good mechanical and electrical connector connection inside your actual
  • crimp connector here so you don't want to solve your your YN beforehand
  • you do want the conductor's to be free so they can all be crimped together
  • inside there and make a good connection with the surrounding barrel of your
  • connector right so here we go i have this really nice big 50 piece of wire
  • and I've got some nice
  • - heavy-duty legs here far better than this cheaper one which is potentially
  • going to fatigue and and split and cause an issue
  • so these are nice and solid they will also carry a lot of kind but that's what
  • you need to go and check is to check the specification of your legs
  • compared to the wire that you're using now if we have a look at this bigger one
  • as you can see the actual gauge is very big and too big
  • you can see that bounces around it might mechanically be gripped in there once I
  • krimpet but obviously the the strength of that mechanical hold and the
  • electrical connection there is potentially an issue
  • so let's go have a look at this like which seems to be sighs better
  • so if i put that on
  • we can see that it goes in and what you do want to ensure you don't want you
  • want to ensure that you've got the conductor going into your leg properly
  • some legs and connectors will have an inspection window
  • some have them on the top some I have them on the front and that should allow
  • you to see whether your conductor is pushed down in there firmly and we'll
  • have a good grip
  • not on here you can see I've got a bit of an end where the insulation is back
  • should I have that so it goes right into the leg
  • no because if it goes right in there again it can compromise the kind of grip
  • when you actually crimp it on there and also again reduce the surface area of
  • the contact of the conductor contacting with the actual like itself
  • so you do want a little bit of the wiring and conduct exposed at the end
  • here so that the installation does not get in the way of the actual leg but
  • obviously you also don't want too much and in this case i'd say probably got a
  • little bit too much exposed
  • so what we want to do is have this the right length and then if we need to
  • insulate it
  • that's when we're going to use our heat shrink right so I've gone and ensured
  • that you now the conductor's cut to the right length so that it does for nice
  • and snuggly down to the tip or the end of the actual like it's at stopping
  • there
  • and the installation is just about right up against but it's certainly not going
  • inside the actual leg itself so at least I've got that little bit exposed to show
  • that nothing is getting in
  • in the where the actual like itself so the next thing i want to crimp it on
  • there and then we want to consider putting some heat-shrink on it right
  • and again it always helps having the right tools for the job just like it is
  • having the a nice set of why strippers if i was to try and battle with a pair
  • of pliers or or what happy to try and crimp this
  • I'd seriously be straining myself and also not get the good mechanical and
  • electrical connection that we want with this
  • so again I've got a nice set of rested crimpers they're nice and heavy duty and
  • it makes doing this a nice chore nice long handles to give you the leverage
  • and obviously the ratcheting system which ensures that it it will hold even
  • if you have to release pressure for any reason
  • right so I've got my writing to already have selected the right size on there so
  • that the actual leg sits in there and his grip firmly
  • I've got the actual tool which is going to cause the indent and actually cause
  • the mechanical grip on the wire right in the middle of the leg
  • if you do have an inspection hole on top you do not want to do it on top of the
  • inspection whole to deform it you want to do it away from that but still in a
  • good place where you got good purchase and it's going to grab the conductor
  • so here we go I've got that and now i'm going to crimp it
  • so there we go
  • I've got it crimped it is relatively well placed in the center the from the
  • inspection window I can still see that my conduct is sitting at the end it
  • hasn't slept out and that's a value of having a little inspection window on
  • your life because it might have slipped back during the process and you won't
  • realize it but here we can quite Casey the conductor's right up against the end
  • it's got a very good mechanical strength in there so that looks as a it went
  • really well so next is the heat shrink now one little thing to note and 41
  • I don't have a nice piece of transparent heat shrink which is going to fit this
  • but that's ideally what we want to do but i'm going to use either the red or
  • the black
  • but of course what you want to do before you crimp your connector on you want to
  • have your heat shrink on their ready because it might not fit over the leg
  • so just note that you are not your heat shrink on first unless you can get it on
  • from the back of the cable itself or otherwise you're going to be stack right
  • so I've got my heat shrink on the actual wire itself and i want to place it so
  • that it goes over here why do I want heat shrink on yet well for one it can
  • obviously act as a form of insulation around just the top of the connector
  • here if you don't want this to come into contact with there anything else to
  • believe it or not the heat shrink acts as a mechanical form of strain relief at
  • the end here as well it does help a little bit to prevent the kind of
  • there's any flicks on the wire it
  • adds a little more support so that you don't get a breaking over here on your
  • conductor
  • so when we put this heat shrink on to the actual leg itself
  • how far do we go so if i had to put the sheet shrink right up to there and put
  • it on it will certainly give nice coverage and it's got a good area of
  • here to provide strain relief
  • however if this is going on a battery terminal and I've gone and reduce the
  • contact surface over here
  • I then created less contact area so potentially I've got a higher resistance
  • and this area for the current flow through so you don't want to remove or
  • take away from the contact area you've got here
  • you want to move back so at least you've got the same area that you've got over
  • here and a nice bit of contact area here when you connect it onto your battery's
  • dead
  • obviously don't get too far back if you wanted to covering over here
  • but again the one issue with this is that it's opaque so you cannot see the
  • connector after the fact
  • anyway let's get the heat shrink on their rights i'm ready to heat my heat
  • shrink to get on there and I'm pulling out my trusty little butane lighter and
  • right so I've got a flame and off I go now there's something else want to
  • highlight i've been using this for a while to do my heat shrinking
  • there are a few issues that it doesn't provide a nice uniform heat source in
  • terms to get this shrink on here nicely it takes a lot of work and heat the
  • light to get hot which is not a good idea and potentially going to burn and
  • split your heat shrink which is what you don't want
  • it's acceptable y-you heating your heat shrink to have a little discoloration
  • but you certainly don't want any kind of charring or anything else because you do
  • want to note that after this is installed
  • if you've got major discoloration you're not going to know whether there's an
  • issue in its operation or whether it's done from when it was applied
  • so you don't want any real charring or splitting of this because that can be a
  • sign that something's wrong when it's in operation so you want to go on a
  • relatively uniform in color without too much discoloration
  • so what I do for that I happen to have an old paint stripper again which I use
  • you do of course get guns and equipment which are meant for heating evenly
  • but anyway this seems to that do the job well for me
  • right so that I have been quite easily
  • what you want to be aware of is you do want to plan a half heat so that it
  • shrinks over and properly tightly hold on to the places over here or else it
  • potentially is going to slip off
  • you do get heat shrink with Japan has got an adhesive side so that it does
  • prevent it from sliding off on insulation but here I've got a good
  • mechanical connection because i'm going over the leg as well I haven't covered
  • too much of the like there's still a nice piece that's exposed so we get good
  • contact area for electrical contact but yet it covers it nicely cover things up
  • that as I said with this you can't see what's going on underneath
  • if I'd continued heating it beyond this point
  • what happens very quickly if you're not careful especially over the legs which
  • get hot it start splitting and you can have a split underneath which you may
  • not realize and then over time this is going to flake off and and its
  • functionality just going to go so just be wary of that when you are actually
  • putting your heat shrink on to your wire and your connector and then last but not
  • least
  • just remember to use your connectors and what have you for the right application
  • as I realized here using the Spade connectors as a fuse holder is perhaps
  • not the right idea
  • the materials are not designed for the potential heat created by these fuses
  • even over here again you can see as a test and i'll link to the video and here
  • where I've been testing the kind of heat that can be generated in wire and these
  • connections if they're not done correctly and you can see what can
  • happen very easily you can get these plastics melting and they could melt and
  • then cause a short as well that's potentially an issue
  • I'd always say where you possible avoid using automotive fuses like this go for
  • proper fuse holders and hopefully your glass fuses which are less likely to end
  • up like this
  • right i hope you get some value from that I do appreciate that I'm like not
  • know all the ins and outs so if you certainly have pulls wisdom and are
  • wiser in this regard to
  • post your comments below or even consider posting a video response we
  • show how it should be done or show what can go wrong when it isn't done
  • correctly
  • certainly having the right tools does helps in the link below
  • i'll have a link to my amazon store where you can either get the actual
  • crimp connectors or tools you can also consider going to my sponsor test the
  • doctor . UK who helped keep the show on the road and help me produce these
  • videos
  • so thank you very much for watching and I'll catch you soon for the next video
  • Cheers tester . code . UK
  • yeah

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A guide on using the correct tools to crimp connectors, strip wire and apply heat shrink.
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Further discussion and link to NASA guide here:
http://mjlorton.com/forum/index.php?topic=244.0

In this video:

* Selecting the correct wire gauge (AWG - American Wire Gauge) for the crimp connector.
* Using the correct tools to strip the insulation from the wire.
* The correct way to insert the wire into the crimp connector
* Using the correct crimp tools to crimp the connector
* How to apply heat shrink correctly to the wire and crimp connector.

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