How to Start a Car That's Been Sitting for Years

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11:28   |   Jul 12, 2016


How to Start a Car That's Been Sitting for Years
How to Start a Car That's Been Sitting for Years thumb How to Start a Car That's Been Sitting for Years thumb How to Start a Car That's Been Sitting for Years thumb


  • Hey guys Chrisfix here
  • and today Im going to show you what you should do
  • before you go to start a car that's been sitting for a long time.
  • And by a long time I mean the car has been sitting without being started or
  • moved for at least 4 to 6 months, or longer. In this case I got mustang from an online
  • auction. I'll be turning it into drift car. The problem is I don't know if it starts.
  • But I do know the car has been sitting for awhile. Even though I want to see if the car will start up.
  • Before we do that I want to go over a couple of IMPORTANT things to check so we
  • don't cause any damage to the engine when we go to start it.
  • That being said the first thing to check was this key was really hard to get in and out. In is not too bad,
  • but getting it out is a little tough. But luckily a sticking key is usually a quick and easy fix.
  • So to fix the sticking ignition lock we're going to be using one of these dry
  • lubricant sprays but instead of me just fixing it real quick,
  • I wanted to show you guys how a lock actually works and why it's hard for
  • your key to move in and out. So there are two main reasons why your key might be
  • hard to move in and out of the lock, and the first reason is every time you put
  • your key in your pocket you have a chance of getting lint on the key, and
  • then when you go use the key in your lock you force that lint in here and it
  • just gums things up.
  • The other reason is, watch these pins right here, you can see when you push the
  • key in, the pins move out of the way and become even so that you could pop the
  • lock open or start the car
  • So if these pins aren't lubricated, it could be difficult to move the key in
  • and out.
  • So what we're going to do is we're going to spray a dry lock lube. It's a dry
  • lubricant that goes in wet and then liquid evaporates and provides
  • lubrication so the key could slide in and out without getting hung up. So you
  • can see how well the lubrication worked in here,
  • now let's go try this out in the Mustang. So make sure you roll down a window or
  • leave a door open or something. So just shake this up. And you really don't need a lot
  • just a little burst. Work our key in and let's see;
  • All right now that is a lot better and that's the first fix on our mustang.
  • In this video I'm going to show you tons of little tips and tricks just like this
  • and at the end of this video we're gonna go try to start this car and see if she
  • runs. Cars are not meant to sit around
  • they're meant to be used. So when they sit around one of the biggest problems
  • is parts get rusty and the fluids in the engine and transmission and all that,
  • start to break down; so with the car off the ground
  • I'm going to show you how to get this car ready so we could safely start the engine
  • All right the first thing to do is get under the hood and check the engine oil;
  • actually, before we even do that, when a car sits animals like to make your car their new home.
  • So they'll build nests out of straw and leaves which could easily catch fire with a hot engine.
  • So take a look around and make sure you don't see any nest from animals anywhere in the engine
  • The other place to look is in the grill and also down below the grill;
  • not only for animals but leaves and debris starts getting stuck up here,
  • which will cause your car to overheat when you first start it. And actually you
  • could see right here it looks like we have a bird of some sort
  • actually it looks like a hummingbird that kind of got wedged up here and stuck. (R.I.P.)
  • So real quick just look for stuff like this and nests from animals.
  • So the first fluid we want to check and probably the most important fluid to
  • check is the engine oil, because it's the lifeblood of your engine.
  • Imagine if we went to start the engine and it happens to be little to no oil in there;
  • or if the oil is old and broken down and provides no protection.
  • You could cause some serious damage. And you can see here we're VERY LOW on oil;
  • actually I wonder if there's even any oil in this engine so let's drain it and find out.
  • I want to catch an oil sample to get analized which could give us some useful
  • information on the condition of the engine. So just loosen the drain plug
  • and drain the oil gotta catch some oil for the sample; good.
  • And with the oil completely drained screw in the plug and tighten it down;
  • not too much just so that snug. Whipe the remaining oil off and let's remove the
  • oil filter. Now this filter is mounted sideways and I hate when they design
  • it like that because it makes it a complete mess to remove.
  • To combat that mess, a tip I have is to use tin foil right underneath the filter
  • to funnel the oil as you remove the filter.
  • See what I mean? Look at the oil getting everywhere. But luckily the tin foil
  • trick works pretty good.
  • Now we can install the new filter. Remove the foil for a quick and easy cleanup
  • and only hand tighten the filter.
  • There's no need to get any tighter than that; and I always write the current
  • mileage on the oil filter so i won't forget it.
  • Now all we need to do is fill the engine with oil. Grab a funnel and an awesome
  • tip is to pour the oil from the container sideways just like this.
  • When you pour it sideways notice the oil pours out smoothly and it isn't coming
  • out in waves which usually makes a mess. I'm using full synthetic high mileage
  • motor oil which is perfect for this engine, and the stresses we're gonna be
  • putting it through as a drift car.
  • Alright so checking and changing your engine oil is probably one of the most
  • important things you could do before starting an engine that's been sitting for a while.
  • The next VERY important thing that we're going to do is we're going to be using
  • some frogging oil in each of the cylinders to lubricate the cylinder
  • walls before we start the engine.
  • So when an engine sits for a long time all the oil drips down to the bottom of
  • the drain pan;
  • even the oil that supposed to be coating the cylinders slowly makes its way down.
  • So the cylinders are completely dry and that's where the fogging oil comes into play.
  • To fog the engine, remove the spark plug wire and then remove the spark plug.
  • And since we have to take the spark plugs out to fog the cylinders,
  • now's a good time to inspect the spark plugs. So you want to make sure that there's
  • no cracks in this ceramic here if there is you have to replace it. And you want
  • to look at the area that in the engine and sparks you want to make sure it's
  • not gummed up with oil.
  • If it is clean it off or replace them. And you also want to check the gap.
  • On this Mustang that gap supposed to be .055 of an inch, so we take our gapping
  • tool, we take our spark plug and we gently move it across until it kind of
  • gets stuck. And you can see it's starting to get stuck around .055 you want to be
  • careful with these platinum plugs you don't really want to rub against them
  • hard because you will remove the platinum coating. The electrode here
  • doesn't look horrible but these are probably the original Ford plugs so they
  • really should be replaced but I think a really cool video would be putting this
  • car on the dino
  • and testing different brand spark plugs and seeing what makes the most
  • power. So i'm going to wait to change these, until then
  • Now to fog the cylinder all you're gonna do is go into the sparkplug hole with
  • the spray and hold the trigger down for one or two seconds.
  • Just like that. And what it does is it put a thin coat of oil on the
  • cylinder walls and piston rings because extra lubrication is never a bad thing. *Wink, wink*
  • Now I'm going to spray this stuff in each cylinder so there's four on this
  • side for on that side and that's going to completely lubricate the upper
  • combustion chamber.
  • All right now with all the cylinders fogged over and lubricated,
  • we have something else that's very important that we need to do with any
  • car that's been sitting for a while. And that is draining the gas tank
  • old gas doesn't burn as good as new gas, plus old gas can clog up the fuel
  • system so we need to remove the old gas and add in some new gas
  • so grab a hose and push it down until it hits the bottom of the tank. Now grab a
  • pump and connect the hose to the pump
  • so you can pump out the gas. Then start pumping the gas out and have an empty
  • gas container ready.
  • Once the gas starts running down the hose it's going to create suction and
  • pull the rest of the gas in the tank
  • out with it so you can remove the pump. Just try not to make a mess, like me. And
  • the key to making this work is to have the end of the hose below the car's gas tank like this
  • so now we have gravity doing our work the gasoline is getting pulled down by
  • gravity and it's going right into the tank and once you remove the hand pump
  • it's actually a decent flow. So be sure to have an extra gas tank
  • just in case this one fills up. Alright so we just ran out of gas which is good
  • that means our tank is empty and that is all there is to it.
  • So we siphened the whole tank empty. There might be a little bit of gas left in
  • there but now we'll put some fresh gas in there it'll dilute any of the bad
  • gas that's remaining in here and it should be good enough to start. And in
  • this case we removed about seven to eight gallons of gas, and you're probably
  • wondering okay so what do I do with all this gas? Your local recycle center
  • will take the gas because you don't know if it's any good; or you could try
  • running this stuff in your lawn mower and if it runs in the lawn mower
  • then you know the gas is still good. Now with the old gas removed and some fresh
  • gas in the tank
  • the last thing we want to do before we start the engine is check the coolant. We
  • want to check the level, which you can see on the side here. And the coolant has
  • to be filled to that line right there. And then we want to open up our coolant
  • reservoir,
  • and use one of these hydrometers and these are actually really inexpensive.
  • And all you do is you put it inside the reservoir you squeeze the bulb up here
  • and it'll take a sample for you.
  • you can see our sample is brightly colored just give it a tap make sure
  • there's no air bubbles. And then we want to check this temperature here, so we
  • look here this is fahrenheit in the blue and we're protected to negative 35
  • degrees around there, and that's exactly where we want to be for a 50-50 mix. So a
  • combination of bright colored coolan,t whether it's orange, whether it's green,
  • purple, whatever color coolant is you want to be brightly colored and then you
  • should protect the negative 34 degrees Fahrenheit which this is so our cooling
  • system is in good shape and I'll wait 'till later down the road to change the
  • coolant. After doing the coolant we're technically safe so we could start the engine.
  • But before we start the engine there's a few more things that I want to cover
  • just to be extra safe,
  • such as the power steering fluid right here.
  • The power steering fluid is really easy to check. You see here it says minimum
  • and maximum so it has to be between these two lines, and it's filled right at
  • the top which is good.
  • The next fluid the check is another non essential for running the engine but
  • it's very essential for stopping the car if we take it for a test drive, and
  • that's checking the brake fluid. On the side of the brake fluid there's a max
  • line right up here and there is a minimum line right down here
  • so you want to make sure the brake fluid is in between both of those lines.
  • If your brakes are worn out, your brake fluid is going to be on the lower end. And
  • if your brakes are brand new
  • it's probably going to be on the upper end. All right this is really exciting
  • our fluids are changed we have, fresh fluids, fresh oil.
  • So now we're going to go see if we could start the car. I think the battery's
  • going to be dead. I charged it up but I think it's really bad.
  • Yeah I got nothing, so we're gonna go put a jump starter on the battery.
  • Now I don't know if you guys have ever seen these mini jump starters, but they
  • are great!
  • you get the cables and then you get the mini jump starter, check this out.
  • That's going to start the car. Just pop that open, plug this in, and we're ready
  • to go. Black to the negative red to the positive.
  • All right let's see what we got here.
  • Come on baby startup...
  • Oh...
  • Come on.
  • Come on... So I'm not gonna go to diagnose this now. We're not gonna go test all the
  • different systems, but what I think it might be a fuel pump not completely sure,
  • so we're going to test that theory out with some starter fluid. So with the air box
  • off, we're gonna go try to start the car.
  • And I'm going to add starter fluid. Go 'head, start 'er up!
  • Aww man! That is exciting! That is what I'm talking about! The car is running! This is awesome!
  • So right now it is literally running on the starter fluid.
  • Now if that doesn't get your heart going, I don't know what does. I am pumped so the
  • starting fluid worked.
  • I think the fuel pump is bad I'm gonna go do a fuel pressure test and all that
  • other stuff. That's going to be in the next video of the series on building
  • this drift car.
  • So stay tuned. Hopefully this video was helpful and now you know when you go to
  • start a car that's been sitting for a while
  • what you need to do so when you started up the engine won't get damaged.
  • Now I need to get a fuel pump and I also need to get a battery.
  • This thing is amazing, I love these little jump starters.

Download subtitle


How to start a car. Don't just start a car that hasn't run in a while. In this video I show you what to check before you attempt to start a car that has not run for 6 months or more so you don't damage the engine.

Portable Jump Starter: https://amzn.to/2E9Gawq
Dry Lock Lubricant: http://amzn.to/29zX38f
Clear Lock: http://amzn.to/29xrAh0
Fogging Oil: http://amzn.to/29xs9XS
Spark Plug Gap Tool: http://amzn.to/29EYik3
Hand Pump: http://amzn.to/29u2RuX
Coolant Tester: http://amzn.to/29xsKJr

Where I won my car from: https://goo.gl/gQlqeE
Where I sent my oil sample: http://goo.gl/Q99LT7

How to Replace a Fuel Pump: /watch?v=mDIlwbx0B-s&list=PLvKbarVtwhUtfd0HpR9IUCGGgXQRInyyu
How to Clean Your Engine Bay: COMING SOON
Does an Air Intake Add Power?: COMING SOON

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