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How to Repair Your Own Alternator (With Simple Tools)

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10:34   |   Feb 12, 2017

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How to Repair Your Own Alternator (With Simple Tools)
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Transcription

  • In this video, you and I are going to
  • troubleshoot and then fix a problem with
  • this alternator.
  • Now, before we start the'res one very
  • important thing that we've got to do...
  • Can you guess what that is? Exactly: put
  • some white paper on top of your work
  • surface and don't ever trust anybody
  • does a job like this without white paper!
  • This alternator was removed from the
  • car once I was sure that there were no
  • other issues on the vehicle itself so I've
  • checked the wiring, I've done voltage drop
  • checks and I've also check the belt
  • tension - all the simple things that could
  • have been wrong with the vehicle. So
  • let's start with the really simple things
  • first - before we start getting into deep
  • and breaking things down -
  • let's just check... This particular
  • alternator like many others has a slip
  • pulley, so the first thing to do is just
  • hold the rotor still - stick a screwdriver
  • in to the case - and then in one
  • direction you should be able to turn
  • that nice and smoothly and in the other
  • direction it should be rock-solid, so do
  • your best try and turn it... Ok that is
  • rock solid so i'm satisfied that the clutch
  • isn't slipping. That could have been another
  • cause of the non charging issue that I
  • had. On this particular alternator
  • you will see it's got this strange
  • attachment to it - it's an oil-driven vacuum
  • pump for the brake servo. Most
  • alternators don't have these and that
  • makes it a lot easier to get the
  • alternator on and off the car. Before we
  • start disassembling the alternator, there is a
  • simple test we can do (we should have
  • done this on the car but let's pretend
  • that we haven't done that) so we're going
  • to put the multimeter on to the
  • continuity check and then we want
  • to go from the battery positive terminal
  • and then go on to, and scratch dig into,
  • the case so that will be grounded and
  • there we have one that hasn't changed
  • that's what we're expecting a good
  • Alternator. And then if we switch these
  • around do the same again there we are, I don't know if
  • you can see that.... So, it should be between
  • about five hundred and eight hundred (millivolts)
  • That's around 470 so that should be fine
  • we're testing the diodes there so it
  • doesn't appear as though we've got any
  • diodes that have 'gone' (burnt out) from this test.
  • I've hooked up a battery from a drill
  • here so I'm now supplying 11 volts
  • to the alternator and this is a
  • full field test - I'm checking to see if it
  • generates with some voltage applied there
  • ...and it doesn't, so we are now going to have to
  • move on to the disassembly and see if we
  • can find a problem in there. Before we
  • start to disassemble this, we want to make
  • sure it goes back in the same
  • orientation so just to mark that out... [Scratches alternator case to form witness marks]
  • I know that looks awful doesn't it but it's quick
  • and no about of cleaning can remove
  • those marks so I know it's gonna go back
  • the same way it came off. These bolts are 8 millimeters
  • [unscrews retaining bolts]
  • I'm just giving these a gentle tap with a hammer just to get
  • them started and then afterwards I can wedge it apart with a
  • flat blade screwdriver. There we go - that's it started.
  • Ok, the rotor came out with a little bit of
  • gentle persuasion
  • I got a flat blade [screwdriver] and I was just
  • against here because I thought somebody was going to say 'don't
  • hit the lugs - you're going to crack the lugs!' But then I wasn't recording anyway!
  • The [front] bearing is in really good condition. The
  • slip rings are in excellent condition, much better than I had imagined actually,
  • and I've measured the resistance of the armature
  • winding on this rotor and it's about 3 Ohms, which is good and
  • there's nothing immediately wrong with
  • this part of the alternator so I'm now
  • having to dismantle - because I have also looked into
  • the stator here and the brushes are in good
  • condition, nice and long and there is no
  • evidence of overheating here really - yeah,
  • there's nothing completely obvious. So I'm
  • afraid i'm just going to keep dismantling
  • - take off the 'oily part' as well
  • and get out the electronics, so that
  • I can test things properly. No doubt you know
  • this already but just in case somebody
  • doesn't.. This fastener here is
  • ridiculously tight... I've been trying to undo it
  • ther with a flat blade [screwdriver] and it's just not
  • working. So a little trick: just get that nice and centred. Lump hammer: [bang]
  • Give it a good whack, and then try again. There she goes... I've got these three fasteners out
  • now... Make sure they are the same length... yeah.
  • Ok I'm now going to remove my little oil
  • pump... or vacuum pump... oil driven vacuum pump!
  • (Third time lucky...) and now I can access
  • some more fasteners and get this little
  • bad boy apart! The nuts on the back of this
  • are 8 mm on this Bosch Alternator.
  • And I'll just just undo these, and try to get some more access.
  • Thes nuts have got little captive washers with them. And it looks as though
  • this is going to have to come off as well, the stud [nut].
  • Gentlemen! And potentially a few ladies I suppose as well
  • sorry - I don't mean to be sexist...
  • I think I may have found a problem
  • I'm in the process of removing the
  • stator armature [winding] form the aluminium housing, and before
  • we go any further I just wanted to show
  • you the problem. If I wobble this around
  • this is
  • going to one of the windings and that
  • should be connected here electrically
  • and mechanically and it's not. So, I
  • believe this is our problem. I'm about to
  • split the stator here
  • the stator armature from the aluminium
  • housing and actually everything's gonna
  • come out together - the electronics all
  • come out together,
  • and the studs as well, come through the body
  • and all out as one assembly. I just wanted to
  • show you - It didn't look as though this was
  • going to be easy to split but then I just
  • found now, sneakily hidden there is a small
  • gap and you can get screwdriver into
  • there and that should help me to start
  • prizing this apart.
  • There she comes...
  • There we are so it allcomes out in one go.
  • Now we can get a good look at what is wrong with this.
  • Here we see what this assembly should
  • look like. The windings from the stator
  • are soldered here and then these, in turn, are
  • soldered to the rectifier and control
  • assembly there. So if I wobble that around you
  • can see that this is all moves together.
  • However, if we come over this side this
  • should be the same but - hopefully you can
  • see this - it's not. So we have some solder
  • broken there. So of course there's no
  • electrical connection or mechanical
  • connection here and the same has happened
  • under here: This should be soldered onto
  • the base plate below it - or above it as we are
  • looking at it now - but it's not! I'm now going
  • to snip the attachment here and here.
  • I'll come back to you in a minute... I need two hands.
  • There we go
  • that's this one done. So, I'll do the second one now
  • and then that will release this is.
  • I've got these all snipped now... I'm just going to withdraw...
  • Ther we are. Now we've got this separated we get a
  • really good view of the rectifier and
  • regulator assembly and this is most
  • definitely our problem... As let's started to
  • work loose, it will have started to arc and
  • overheated: hence the melted plastic that
  • we can see just here, so this is kaput!
  • There we are then we found our fault! Now
  • the good news is I've been online and
  • you can buy these separately so you can buy
  • just the diode plate here and that costs
  • around 25 dollars or you can buy this
  • entire assembly and that's about fifty
  • dollars so you may be able to spend $25
  • to fix your alternator, instead of $350 to
  • buy a new one... If you wanted to replace
  • this entire component, it is really easy: You
  • just place it back into position like so
  • and then you crimp over the tabs and you
  • get some high temperature solder AKA
  • silver solder... 1,2,3,4 dabs... There you go
  • that's ready to go back together and
  • then once you've completed a successful
  • bench test and you know it working
  • again you can fit it to your car
  • and you've got the car back! I'll leave some
  • links in the description of the video
  • to that the parts i mentioned this is a
  • Bosch alternator but by looking at these
  • parts you can get an idea of the kind of
  • parts that you might need for yours and
  • no doubt they will sell them for your alternator too.
  • Thanks for joining me guys, I hope you
  • enjoyed this video and I hope something
  • useful came of it
  • I'm sure something useful it will come
  • from the comments below: We've got a good
  • community going here guys
  • and you always come up with some great
  • comments so I'm looking forward to reading
  • them when you 'make' them.
  • That's it, until next time, don't forget
  • love life!

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Description

See how to troubleshoot, repair and rebuild your car's alternator. Repairing your alternator is easy and cheap! (And you don't need fancy tools...) If you don't have time to fix yours, you can buy a replacement alternator here ▶ https://amzn.to/2D63ON9

Alternators are often scrapped when they could be repaired at home. This video shows you how you can repair a faulty alternator, with a $25 replacement component.

You can buy 'Alternator Repair Kits' and fix your own alternator for a fraction of the price of buying a whole new alternator. Here are some example parts that I would buy in order to repair the problem with the alternator shown in the video:

Rectifier / Diode Plate on ebay: http://fave.co/2kltjev
Alternator Repair Kit on ebay: http://fave.co/2klnptY

This is an Alternator, from a GM vehicle. The Diode plate and voltage regulator are hidden inside the aluminium housing. If your alternator has the electronics on the outside, it's even easier to fix!

Have you fixed an alternator? Let me know what was wrong with yours, how you fixed it, and any of your tips in the comments section so that we all learn new techniques.

Subscribe to see more of my videos (It's FREE!): http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=UClZqTakBVD829nt0MnuNXtA

Cheers!
Chris

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'Random Chris' is a Helvellyn Ltd brand. Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of Helvellyn Ltd, we cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Helvellyn Ltd assumes no liability for property damage, injury or death incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Helvellyn Ltd. recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, open flames, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Helvellyn Ltd, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helvellyn Ltd. Disclosure: any links in this description may be affiliate links. If you decide to buy some items from them, Helvellyn Ltd may receive a small percentage compensation for having suggested the suppliers to you. (This costs you nothing) As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Helvellyn Ltd only recommends suppliers and products which we believe in, so there is never any conflict of interest.