LOADING ...

How to Rebuild the Entire Front Suspension in your Car or Truck

2M+ views   |   72K+ likes   |   967 dislikes   |  
23:16   |   Apr 12, 2019

Thumbs

How to Rebuild the Entire Front Suspension in your Car or Truck
How to Rebuild the Entire Front Suspension in your Car or Truck thumb How to Rebuild the Entire Front Suspension in your Car or Truck thumb How to Rebuild the Entire Front Suspension in your Car or Truck thumb

Transcription

  • Hey guys ChrisFix here and today i'm gonna show you how to replace your
  • entire front suspension! Everything in the front wheel well is gonna be
  • replaced, I'm talking about everything! We have lower control arms, all the bushings
  • the axle, the strut, any boots, we have the hub, the bearing, all the ball joints, the
  • inner and outer tie rod, and the upper control arm... literally everything from
  • the wheel inwards is gonna get replaced. I already started on the other side let
  • me give you an idea what I'm talking about so here are all the old components
  • and here's what its gonna look like. There is nothing left in here it's all
  • gonna be brand new and the reason why we're doing this is because all these
  • components have two hundred thousand miles on them. They're old they're rusty
  • they're worn out and they have to be replaced let me show you what I mean.
  • Driving this car is supposed to be a lot of fun but it isn't it's scary, you could
  • feel all the play in the suspension, the steering is not accurate it's vague, it
  • wanders all over the road, everything feels all loose and worn out you could
  • just tell that it's no good. Now you saw how bad it drove, well the next thing
  • you'd want to look for is your tire wear. You can see here the outside edge of the
  • tire is worn out which is due to excessive camber, this is positive camber
  • if you see the inside wearing out that's negative camber, but this wear could be
  • due to a bad alignment, it's just a signal to check out the suspension to
  • make sure it's okay, and to check the suspension what you
  • want to do is you want to grab a pry bar and we're gonna go in here and pry at
  • the front suspension. You want to pry around the bushings and make sure
  • they're not worn out there shouldn't be much play... It will deflect a little bit,
  • but this is way too much! I'm not even pulling hard on the pry bar and you can
  • see the whole upper control arm is moving around and that's why the
  • suspension on this car feels so horrible. Now that's just me and a pry bar, imagine
  • the entire weight of the car on the suspension, there's gonna be a lot more
  • play than that, so all the bushings are bad all the ball joints are bad, the
  • bearing is bad, basically all the suspension components are bad and need
  • to get replaced so I'm going to replace them all and the good thing is you guys
  • are going to learn how to replace and rebuild your entire front suspension and
  • we're gonna be doing this at home on jack stands using common hand tools!
  • Now as always I like to start off by putting on some eye protection and all you're
  • gonna need tool wise is a breaker bar, some wrenches, ratchets, and a socket set
  • a pry bar a torque wrench, some pliers, and snap ring pliers, screwdrivers
  • and a hammer. Now I do have an electric impact gun here just to show you guys
  • that this is a very very useful tool it makes your job so much quicker and
  • easier, now I do understand that not everybody has one but if you're gonna be
  • working on cars, definitely consider investing in one since not everybody has
  • one I'm gonna stick to using common hand tools but I will link all the tools here
  • in the description so you could easily find them... Now there are some more
  • specialized tools that you're going to need because we're gonna be pressing out
  • a bearing and ball joints so we have a ball joint press, we have a slide hammer,
  • and we have a bearing press. Now since most people don't own these more
  • specialized tools, you can rent them from your local parts store for free and for
  • whatever reason if you can't find these tools for free, when we get to the point
  • where we remove the knuckle, you could take this to your local shop have them
  • press out the old ball joint and the bearing, and press in a new ball joint
  • and bearing, it's not going to cost a lot then you could come back to your house
  • and continue replacing the rest of your parts. Speaking about parts, it's very
  • important that you install good parts into your car, you don't want to install
  • junk and then they go bad and you don't have a good ride, install quality parts
  • so you want to make sure your parts meet or exceed OEM spec, it's a good idea to
  • make sure your parts have all the included fasteners in hardware, you don't
  • want to reuse old rusted fasteners that are bent, in order to do the job a
  • hundred percent you want to make sure you have new fasteners, and I do want to
  • thank Mevotech for supporting the video and sending me out a bunch of
  • suspension components so I could show you guys how to do this, and with that we
  • are ready to start removing the front suspension. Now of course, before you
  • begin any work you want to make sure your car safely jacked up and on jack
  • stands, another thing I like to do is I like to get the tire and slide it
  • underneath just as an extra level of protection so the car can't completely
  • drop in a worst-case scenario The next thing I like to do, since all the
  • suspension bolts have been on here for a really long time, they're all rusty, I
  • like to get some penetrating fluid and just spray down all the suspension bolts
  • I've already done this over the past couple of days because I knew I was
  • going to do this job, the penetrating fluid is going to help loosen up the
  • rusted nuts and bolts, it's gonna penetrate deep into the threads and
  • lubricate it so it makes it easier to remove all these fasteners, so with every
  • nut and bolt sprayed down with penetrating fluid, the first thing we
  • want to remove is the axle nut and this axle nut has a little indentation here
  • that we have to straighten out before we can remove it so get a little punch and
  • a hammer and just push the rim of the axle nut
  • out of this indentation... beautiful now the idea is that little indented part is
  • stuck inside the axle so the axle nut can't come out by mistake so when we
  • install our new axle nut at the end we're gonna do the same thing we're
  • gonna indent the rim into the axle all right so now we can remove the axle nut
  • but the problem is if we try to loosen it the axle is just gonna spin so
  • normally what I'd like to do is I like to put the wheel back on the car and
  • then lower the car down to the ground so that doesn't spin but I already did the
  • other side and there's no suspension there so another way to prevent the
  • wheel from spinning is to stick a screwdriver into the cooling vanes on
  • the brake rotor or have someone in the car press the brakes and that'll hold
  • the axle in place so you could break the axle nut loose you'll definitely have to
  • use a long breaker bar to get enough leverage to do this because axle nuts
  • are on there tight also don't hurt your back doing this bend from the knees and
  • not from your back with the nut loose now we can remove it the rest of the way
  • by hand good and that's all there is to it and notice how the penetrating fluid
  • soaked into the threads a little bit which made it easier to remove next we
  • can remove the brake caliper there's two bolts behind here in order to make it
  • easier to remove just turn the steering wheel to give you better access to those
  • bolts and you can see we have more room to remove the top caliper bolt and the
  • bottom bolt just loosen that the rest of the way by hand and now the brake
  • caliper is loose but before we remove it we want to follow the brake line and
  • remove any fasteners holding the brake line to the knuckle like here and here
  • so let's remove the first ten millimeter fastener holding the brake line in good
  • and then the second 10 millimeter fastener which is back here good and
  • with the brake line free we could remove the caliper so slide a bucket or a block
  • of wood under the wheel well that way we could remove the caliper and place it on
  • a piece of wood so there's no pressure on the brake line finally we could get
  • the brake rotor off and that's definitely going to need some hammering
  • only hit it like this if you're gonna replace it perfect and with the rotor
  • loose let's remove it all right so with the brakes out of the way now we could
  • remove the hub the hub is what the wheel bolts to so in order to remove this we
  • want to make sure we don't remove any other suspension parts because we need
  • the suspension to hold the knuckle in as we pull the hub out to pull the hub out
  • we're gonna be using our slide hammer so let's grab the hub adapter and fit it in
  • place and it figures because this Honda has such a small hub
  • the studs aren't fitting in the slots here I could get one in but I can't get
  • the other so I have a quick solution gonna thread on some lug nuts and then
  • hammer the studs so i bend them apart since i'm replacing this hub I don't
  • care if these studs Bend and look at that perfect now thread on lug nuts to
  • hold the slide hammer adapter in place then we can grab the slide hammer thread
  • it onto the adapter and let's remove this hub so what you do is slide the
  • weight fast to knock the hub outwards you're probably gonna have to do this a
  • bunch of times especially if the hub is original and in this case over 25 years
  • old and this is putting up a bigger fight than I thought I'm not so sure
  • this is gonna remove the hub and unfortunately sometimes that happens
  • when you work on cars your plan doesn't work it would have made it so much
  • easier just to pull this right out how this works is here's what the hub looks
  • like it's nice and smooth this fits into the bearing and the slide hammer pulls
  • it right out in this case it's so rusty and old it's not coming out easily but
  • it's not a huge deal we're just gonna have to knock out that hub when we
  • remove the entire knuckle all right so the next thing to do is to remove the
  • knuckle that holds the bearing in so the knuckle is held in by the upper ball
  • joint there by the tie rod ball joint right here and by the lower ball joint
  • under here we remove those three ball joints and the entire knuckle will come
  • out so let's start with the upper ball joint so this is a castle nut and
  • usually castle nuts have a cotter pin that goes through them and it's bent
  • around the castle nut but I think the cotter pin was so rusted it just fell
  • apart so let's see if we could break this nut loose beautiful and then loosen
  • it up the rest of the way now we're gonna take the same castle nut flip it
  • upside down and screw it back on to the stud this is actually a really helpful
  • trick screw the castle nut in until the base of the nut is flush with the stud
  • perfect then hammer that upwards to pop the stud out of the knuckle and usually
  • with the ball joint loose you can't unscrew the nut because the stud just
  • spins like you're seeing here so get all locking pliers and clamp down onto the
  • stud now the stud is held in place and we can remove the nut just like that so
  • with the upper ball joint completely removed now let's move on to the lower
  • ball joint down here and with this lower ball joint you can see now we have a
  • cotter pin so what we're gonna do is we're gonna open up that cotter pin this
  • is gonna be really simple and grab on to it and pull it right out just like that
  • next we could break this nut loose and remove it the rest of the way and
  • just like before flip it over and reinstall it so it's flush with the stud
  • now let's hammer it out unfortunately again things are not working as planned
  • and this ball joint stud isn't popping out so I'm gonna remove this nut I don't
  • want to get the nut stuck on here and then it makes a bigger problem and you
  • can see the nut was already starting to get deformed
  • that means we're hitting this so hard it's not working so this gives me the
  • opportunity to show you a specialized tool designed exactly for popping out
  • ball joint studs all you need to do is place the tool over the control arm and
  • slide it under the ball joint stud and tighten it down so it presses against
  • the stud now you just tighten this until it pops this is part of a ball joint
  • puller set that could be rented for free from many parts stores so this is
  • another option I wanted to show you boom that is all there is to it now we can
  • remove the tool and the ball joint is free from the knuckle and finally the
  • last thing to remove to get the knuckle out is the tie rod end so let's bend the
  • cutter pin open and it's okay to break the cotter pin because we do need to
  • replace this anyway a lot of times it makes it easier to remove like this then
  • break the nut loose and unscrew it the rest of the way again flipping the
  • castle nut over and then hitting the nut and stud with a hammer to pop it out
  • then remove the nut and the tie rod can be removed and the knuckle is finally
  • free so now that the entire knuckle is removed we can remove the ball joint and
  • bearing and that hub that we couldn't get off before but before we do that
  • let's finish removing the rest of the suspension and we might as well continue
  • by working on the inner and outer tie rod we're gonna keep this as one
  • assembly we're just gonna disconnect this right here from the steering rack
  • and the reason why we want to keep this connect is because we'll be able to get
  • a measurement from here to here and when we install the new inner and outer tie
  • rod we can use that same exact measurement to give us a pretty accurate
  • alignment so to remove this tie rod we're gonna need two wrenches and we
  • need access to the inner tie rod ball joint right here so slip one wrench on
  • to the steering rack to hold it in place and use the other wrench to loosen the
  • inner tie rod with that loose now we can loosen it the rest of the way by hand
  • good and notice there's a lock washer at the end here I'll show you how to
  • install this on the new tie rod so the tie rod doesn't come loose while you
  • drive and finally remove that old broken boot alright so next let's go and remove
  • the right the strut comes down and goes into
  • this metal bracket here right here there is a pinch bolt holding this in we want
  • to remove that first before we remove any fasteners so let's go get that loose
  • there we go now it's loosening up and let's remove this bolt the rest of the
  • way by hand beautiful and that's gonna make it so much easier to separate the
  • strut from the metal bracket down here so the next thing we need to do is
  • remove this bolt holding the strut into the lower control arm so get a wrench on
  • one side holding the bolt in place as we unscrew the nut with the ratchet then we
  • can remove the nut all the way and lightly tap the bolt out with the hammer
  • and with that bolt removed the only thing holding the strut in are two
  • fasteners right on top of the strut tower so let's loosen up the first 14
  • millimeter nut and remove it the rest of the way and let's remove the other nut
  • as well and once that's off we could push the strut down and have to push it
  • somewhere to clear the control arm wiggle it a little up and the strut
  • Forks separated from the strut so that's one last step okay and that gives us
  • room to remove the axle so now we just need to follow the axle all the way to
  • the transmission so we're coming in from the outside going under the car and the
  • axle goes right into the transmission right here now you just want to grab a
  • pry bar slide it between the axle and the transmission and just pop it out
  • perfect now before you remove the axle completely get something to catch the
  • leaking transmission fluid because when you remove the axle some fluid might
  • come out and in this case it looks like nothing's leaking which is nice so
  • there's no mess and we don't have to refill it later on so now with the axle
  • free we can remove it completely from the car and we're so close to being done
  • with the disassembly all that's left is the lower control arm here and the upper
  • control arm there so let's get that upper control arm out this is so easy to
  • do it's held in by two fasteners so let's start with breaking this nut free
  • right here and loosen it the rest of the way by hand now let's get that other nut
  • removed completely as well good so with both of these nuts removed now we could
  • go back under the car and this control arm should come right out like that
  • beautiful so now with that done we have one more thing we need to do and that is
  • remove this lower control arm there is a bolt right here and there's a couple of
  • bolts back here holding in a bushing so let's go remove those bolts first and
  • there are three bolts that we need to remove that hold the control arm bushing
  • in place so let's break the first one loose and that was a lot easier to break
  • loose than I thought given how rusty all this is
  • next we can remove the second bolt and finally we could finish off with
  • removing that last bolt so with this end completely loose now we have one more
  • bolt we need to remove and that is right here so let's break this final 17
  • millimeter bolt free and unscrew it the rest of the way by hand and then we
  • could wiggle the control arm right out of here
  • alright so with this control arm removed we have officially removed everything in
  • this wheel well and it wasn't that difficult it's really that simple in
  • most cases all the fasteners came off pretty easily if they were hard to
  • remove you just use a breaker bar make sure you spray everything down with
  • penetrating fluid and it's that simple it's just a bunch of nuts and bolts so
  • out with all the old suspension parts and in with all the brand new ones I
  • cannot wait to get these installed it's gonna make a huge difference from these
  • old rusted parts to the brand-new parts now what we need to do is we need to get
  • our knuckle and remove the hub bearing and ball joint I'll show you how to do
  • that off the car and since we have everything
  • removed how I'm gonna clean up everything in here I'm gonna hose it
  • down and I'm gonna put a fresh coat of paint so we don't get any rust it's
  • important to clean the wheel well before you paint to remove all the dirt oils
  • and grease which will prevent the paint from sticking I'm gonna remove the
  • fender liner for some more access and let's spray down the wheel well with
  • some soapy water which will act as our degreaser then grab a brush and brush
  • everything down this is gonna agitate all the dirt and make it easier to
  • remove look at all that dirt just getting washed away so let's finish up
  • with a final rinse and finally I'm gonna set up a fan right here to dry this off
  • faster so as we let that dry that gives us the perfect opportunity to work on
  • our knuckle so we're gonna go from this to this this is the passenger side I
  • already did it already replaced everything it looks great now I did say
  • at the beginning of the video if you can't get the specialized tools for rent
  • or if you just don't want to tackle this part of the job you can take your
  • knuckle to a shop they will press out all the old parts so they'll press out
  • the hub the bearing the ball joint and the press in the new parts for you sure
  • it's gonna cost you a little bit extra but it might not be a bad option if you
  • want now of course I'm gonna show you right now how to remove everything and
  • replace everything so let's get started the first thing we need to do is get
  • this old stubborn hub out now you saw before slide hammer was not working at
  • all it's just so rust welded in there we're gonna need something with a lot
  • more force now we don't have any fancy presses or anything here so we're going
  • to be you good old hammer and let me show you how
  • so grab your knuckle and this hub is gonna come out this way so we're gonna
  • set this up in the vise so this outside ring right here is the bearing this
  • inside ring is the hub just so you get a better idea you can see this inside ring
  • right here is the hub we're gonna go get a sock and place it right there so we
  • could push the hub only and leave the bearing in place so get a socket that
  • fits right on the hub and let's hammer this hub out you're probably gonna have
  • to use some pretty good force to get this out considering the slot hammock
  • didn't work for it beautiful and you can see how much better this work compared
  • to using that slide hammer this worked a lot quicker and was a lot easier to get
  • it out and now let's get the bearing out so the bearing is held in with a snap
  • ring and this is what prevents the bearing from coming out and the trick
  • with removing old rusty snap rings is to soak them in penetrating fluid to loosen
  • them up now we could grab our snap ring pliers squeeze them good and that's not
  • budging so when your snap ring pliers just aren't strong enough to move that
  • snap ring because the snap ring is so rust welded in here a little trick is to
  • get a punching hammer and get that punch in one of the snap ring holes and tap
  • the punch to break the snap ring free from the rust do this to the other side
  • of the snap ring as well and hammer around the flat part of the snap ring
  • again to break that snap ring free from all that rust that's gripping tight onto
  • it now we could go back in there and give that snap ring pliers a good
  • squeeze and that's working a lot better than before but it's still stuck so grab
  • a flathead screwdriver and work your way around the snap ring
  • to loosen it up and there we go now since we removed our snap ring from this
  • side of the bearing that means the bearing is going to come out this way
  • because the snap ring was preventing it from coming out so let's flip over the
  • knuckles so we can knock this bearing out then we're gonna get our bearing
  • crest kit and we want to grab a bearing adapter that we think will fit right on
  • the outside of the bearing so this right here is the correct adapter you can see
  • the outside edge of the bearing we want this to fit right on the outside edge
  • like that there's a little bit of space around the whole thing where this will
  • allow us to push that bearing out but it won't get caught up if you use something
  • too small like this you're gonna only push on this race right here and the
  • bearings gonna get damaged you're just gonna pop that inside race out and if
  • you use something too big like this you're not even going to be hammering
  • the bearing you're gonna be hammering onto the knuckle and that's not going to
  • move the bearing so you want to on the right size that fits right in
  • there and now we're gonna just hammer this out for the bearing you're gonna
  • need a decent amount of force to knock this out just be careful not to hit the
  • knuckle which could damage it I like to use some penetrating fluid to both
  • loosen up the rust and to lubricate the bearings so it comes out easier and you
  • won't damage the knuckle as its four-step and we're almost there you can
  • see that bearings about to pop out beautiful and there you go that is how
  • you remove an old wheel bearing there's nothing to it and this one was pretty
  • stuck in there yet we still managed to pop it out with just a hammer
  • next it's important to use a pic or a thin flat head screwdriver and clean out
  • the channel the snap ring sits in get all that rust out that's gonna prevent
  • the new snap ring from seating properly into that channel this is important
  • because this is what prevents your bearing from coming out
  • so let's wipe all the loose rust away and see how that snap ring fits perfect
  • that snap ring is all the way into the channel and that's exactly what we want
  • to see next let's remove this old rusty break dust shield I need to try to
  • unscrew these three screws there Phillips heads but I could tell this is
  • gonna be hopeless and it is just stripping that screw away I'll have to
  • try the other screw just in case and as you can see the rust is just too much
  • but don't worry I have a super simple trick and that's using a saw what we
  • want to do is saw a slot into the screw essentially turning it into a flathead
  • screw instead of a Phillips then we could use a larger flathead screwdriver
  • and that's what I'm talking about that gave us enough leverage to break that
  • screw free so we turned something that was going to be a real pain to remove
  • into something that wasn't difficult at all you can't beat that now we can apply
  • the same method to the other two screws good that's the second one free and
  • again saw a slot and good that's the third one free finally with all the
  • rusted screws removed we could remove the dust shield now let's remove the old
  • worn out lower ball joint so we'll start by removing the snap ring use that snap
  • ring pliers to spread that snap ring apart and remove it from the ball joint
  • it's also helpful to remove the rubber boot so let's do that as well so with
  • the snap ring removed now we could hammer out the ball joint and just like
  • the bearing we're gonna have to hammer it out on the shoulder of the ball joint
  • so find the right size socket that's gonna fit on the shoulder just like that
  • then use penetrating fluid that help lubricate the ball joint for easier
  • removal and just hammer the ball joint out notice I'm using a black impact
  • socket which could take the abuse of hammering
  • and that's all there is to it so with that old hub the bearing and ball joint
  • removed from the knuckle now we want to prepare the knuckle to install the new
  • hub bearing and ball joint what you want to do is you want to look on the inside
  • of the barrel here with the bearing sits and make sure there's no pieces of metal
  • that are sticking out any burrs or anything from hitting that bearing out
  • that could cause issues when you push the new bearing in in this case this
  • looks nice and smooth same thing with our ball joint here if you did have any
  • burrs on the edge what you could do is you get a file and just file those burrs
  • down so when you push the new bearing or ball joint in it won't damage it since
  • this is good all you want to do is get some 400 grit sandpaper and lightly sand
  • the surfaces with a ball joint and bearing slide into the idea is to get
  • them rust free smooth and clean and just give the ball joint and bearing a fresh
  • surface to press into beautiful so you see how nice and smooth and clean that
  • surface is it's rust free that's exactly what we want to see in the bearing spot
  • and in the ball joint spot now for everybody who knows me this is not going
  • to be going back in looking like this we'll be painting the knuckles so I
  • taped off where the bearing and ball joints slide into next use a metal wire
  • brush to remove all the loose dirt and rust from the knuckle it doesn't have to
  • be a hundred percent rust free because we're gonna be using paint that bonds to
  • the rust but we definitely need to make sure the loose rust is removed good and
  • that's what we want it to look like so not only am I going to paint the knuckle
  • but I'm gonna paint the strut fork end I'm gonna paint the entire chassis over
  • here in the wheel well I did move the bumper off to the sides just a couple of
  • Clips so let's get started so with the clean and dry surface I'm starting off
  • with a special silver colored paint that bonds to the rust and it seals the metal
  • surface so no new rust could form after that dries I'm going over it with a
  • special thick black paint that adds a second barrier against rock chips break
  • dust oil and grease it's also going to make this wheel well look really nice
  • I'm gonna follow the same exact steps for the knuckle and strut fork paint on
  • the silver colored paint and after that dries paint on the thick black paint all
  • right with those parts painted and with our wheel well and chassis painted look
  • at that not only does that look good but that paint barrier is gonna prevent rust
  • so now all we need to do is let it dry and 24 hours later our paint is
  • completely dry so we're ready to install our brand-new ball joint and bearing so
  • for this video we've already covered a lot of information we dis
  • the entire front worn out suspension from control arms to tie rods the axle
  • the strut ball joints and bearings and hubs and even the brakes we removed it
  • all so we went from this old worn-out suspension to this completely gutted
  • wheel well with fresh paint so with all these old parts removed in the next
  • video I'm gonna show you how to install your entire front suspension including
  • pressing in the new ball joint bearing and hub that way everything's gonna be
  • brand new in our front suspension we'll get her aligned and see how she drives
  • so I'm gonna make it really simple for you guys to find that video so you can
  • see how to install all the suspension parts I'll post a link in the
  • description and I'm also gonna have a link right here on the screen just click
  • the screen right there and that'll take you to the next video I'm putting the
  • suspension together hopefully this video was helpful if it was remember to give
  • it a thumbs up also if you're not a subscriber consider subscribing and
  • hitting that notification bell for more videos just like this and finally all
  • the tools and products I used in this video are linked in the description so
  • you could easily find them

Download subtitle

Description

Learn how to replace the ENTIRE front suspension of your car in this two episode series. First I will show you how to remove the wheel bearing, ball joints, control arms, tie rod, strut, and axle.

The ball joint and wheel bearing has to be pressed out of the knuckle and I have a bunch of tips and tricks to make that easy. The upper control arm ball joint and tie rod can get stuck in the knuckle so I show some tricks on how to easily remove that. The rest of the suspension parts are pretty simple to remove and replace.

NEXT EPISODE: /watch?v=V_g1-WHD4rw

Tools and Products:
Mevotech Suspension Parts: https://amzn.to/2VKrmfr
Rust Paint: https://amzn.to/2Dg5yAV
Impact gun: https://amzn.to/2It3KIo
Torque Wrench: https://amzn.to/2UO2yFY
Bearing Press: https://amzn.to/2Gh8tv3
Ball Joint Puller: https://amzn.to/2P2wmcH
Slide Hammer: https://amzn.to/2URoqAe
Ball Joint Press: https://amzn.to/2UTxEvR
4lb Hammer: https://amzn.to/2GhZ06A
Vice: https://amzn.to/2IfqPyV

→ Become a ChrisFix Subscriber: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=paintballoo7
→ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chrisfixit
→ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/chrisfix8
→ Website: http://www.ChrisFixed.com
→ My Channel Home Page: https://www.youtube.com/ChrisFix

**If the video was helpful, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing.**

Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.