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HID vs LED Headlight Bulbs: EXPLAINED

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Jun 21, 2019

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HID vs LED Headlight Bulbs: EXPLAINED
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  • Hi, Paul with Diode Dynamics, and
  • today we're talking about HIDs vs
  • LEDs, when it comes to upgrading
  • your headlights.
  • Now, there's a lot of regulations
  • state by state. Today,
  • we're talking about how these two different technologies actually
  • work, and what you
  • can expect to get in your vehicle.
  • Now, that's the first big note to
  • mention. When it comes to bulbs and
  • headlights, it all comes together to
  • make one optical system.
  • So, the results in the beam pattern
  • is going to vary based
  • on your specific headlight design.
  • But, there's a couple things
  • we can talk about that are going to
  • give you an idea as
  • to what to expect when you're
  • considering LEDs or HIDs.
  • We start with the actual bulb
  • itself.
  • The most basic is our halogen.
  • That's gonna be a wire filament.
  • So just a coil of wire that's going
  • to be emitting the power.
  • You can see on the bottom of the
  • bulb the voltage rating and
  • everything. The voltage is going
  • to be going straight through that filament, which acts as
  • a resistor, and it's going to emit
  • light.
  • So very basic; very tried and true.
  • When it comes to HID, instead
  • of a filament, we
  • have a capsule. Right in the middle
  • is where there's going to be an arc
  • generated.
  • So, the light is coming from an
  • electrical arc and that's what makes
  • things a little tricky.
  • We're always going to have a return
  • wire to connect it from one
  • side down back to the base.
  • And these are going to run at about
  • 45V, usually AC
  • power. So much different than the
  • 12V DC in a vehicle. We have to do
  • some special things to get
  • power to these effectively.
  • When it comes to our LED bulbs,
  • we're always going to have emitting
  • points somewhere with
  • different types of LEDs, but these are going
  • to vary hugely in
  • the way they're designed and
  • constructed. Some of them are going
  • to have internal regulators for
  • the power to come in, but the LED
  • chips themselves are
  • definitely not going to run on 12V.
  • So we need to regulate that power in
  • some way. So, as we mentioned, the
  • halogen bulb is just gonna use 12V
  • from the vehicle.
  • Very straightforward.
  • HIDs on the other hand, we're
  • going to operate with an arc in that
  • bulb.
  • Now, that arc is
  • not an easy thing to generate and
  • maintain. So we need something
  • called a "ballast", which
  • is going to keep that running smoothly through the bulb.
  • The ballasts you'll
  • find on the market now are these
  • slim style ballasts.
  • One thing you'll note with them, is
  • that on the output side, you'll
  • always have a box of some sort.
  • And what that is, is
  • the igniter.
  • So we have to get the right power going
  • to the bulb, but to get that arc
  • started, we basically have to
  • spark across.
  • So, these are going to generate up
  • to 25,000 volts, 22-23kV
  • usually,
  • and that's going to get that arc
  • started so the light can start to
  • come out. That's the main reason why
  • these older ballasts are so thick.
  • If you put this together, you'll
  • see, it's basically the
  • same size. All they've done is move
  • these igniters external
  • and that way the ballast itself can
  • be smaller.
  • But what's in the actual ballast?
  • Well, it's
  • not easy to keep that arc of light
  • running.
  • So these ballasts are basically
  • little processors, little
  • computers. And what they're going to
  • do, is they're going to analyze this
  • arc as it's running.
  • Now, when you ignite that bulb to
  • get it started, it will spark
  • for a second, and then it'll
  • gradually warm up. And
  • what that is, is it's actually
  • monitoring the resistance of this
  • arc, and the ballast
  • is delivering more and more power so
  • that this arc
  • can get bigger and bigger. This is
  • the same way it works in stadiums
  • and that sort of thing.
  • So in stadium lights they're way
  • bigger arcs, so can take 30
  • minutes after a stadium light comes
  • on and it slowly gets brighter
  • and brighter. In HIDs for
  • vehicles here, much lower power,
  • much smaller arcs.
  • You can still take 10
  • to 30 seconds to get fully warmed
  • up.
  • But that's basically how the HID
  • system comes together.
  • As you can see, there's way
  • more going on to them than our
  • standard halogen bulb.
  • And the fact that we need to use
  • this micro processor
  • in here to really regulate that arc,
  • the igniter to get this arc
  • started, it's all just a lot of
  • parts coming together.
  • And the problem is a lot of these
  • aftermarket ones are built to a
  • cost, so you can buy these
  • kits for $2-3 for the whole set.
  • You're not going to get good
  • components. So, with good components
  • they can work well, but there's
  • always a lot more that has to go
  • into them.
  • So how does that compare to LEDs.
  • Well with LED we
  • simply have the LED on a stalk here,
  • and then going to the base of the
  • bulb. And most
  • of them are going to have these little boxes coming off.
  • But these aren't what we refer
  • to as a ballast. A ballast really
  • monitors the arc of a power.
  • And so we use that term for HIDs,
  • fluorescent lights, that sort of
  • thing. These are what we would call
  • "drivers or regulators".
  • Most commonly, they're just going to
  • take your 12 or 13 volts on the
  • vehicle, and convert it down to
  • 9 volts, or whatever voltage
  • is required for the LED bulb
  • design.
  • LED bulbs do require constant
  • current going to them instead of
  • constant voltage.
  • So, we have to use a constant
  • current supply.
  • So we'll make
  • sure that about 1 amp, 1.2 amps,
  • is traveling through those
  • LEDs very uniformly, to keep them
  • very reliable.
  • Still, it's much simpler than
  • the complexity of maintaining an arc of
  • power. So these are generally much
  • simpler, much more reliable over
  • time, and much
  • less expensive versus a whole
  • ballast.
  • Now what's the difference in how
  • these actually turn on and
  • operate? Well, with HIDs, as we
  • talked about, it uses an arc that
  • needs a spark on and then gradually
  • turn on.
  • Now, even if you find a special
  • ballast, thats advertised as "fast
  • starting" or "fast bright", it's
  • gonna take a couple seconds after
  • that initial spark, which
  • is one reason they're not too great
  • for high beam use where do you
  • want to use them as indicators.
  • It's gonna take a couple seconds for
  • them to get to full brightness.
  • Once they do get the full
  • brightness, they're
  • going to maintain that brightness level no
  • matter how long they're on. With
  • LEDs they
  • will instantly turn on, which is
  • a big advantage.
  • But, one thing that most
  • people don't talk about with LEDs,
  • is that it's gonna be 100%
  • brightness only at
  • the instant they turn on when
  • they're nice and cool. As they heat
  • up, they're going to reduce and
  • brightness, down to
  • maybe 80-85%
  • percent of that original level, and
  • with really cheap bulbs that aren't
  • well designed, it
  • might only be 50% or 60% So, it's
  • important to choose an LED bulb
  • that's
  • going to maintain the output at a
  • very high level with good thermal
  • performance. We have another video
  • on this we can see on camera, the
  • actual LED brightness decreasing, is
  • pretty crazy. But, once it
  • reaches that steady operating
  • temperature, it will maintain that
  • output very nicely.
  • So once these are running, how are
  • they going to work over time or
  • eventually fail?
  • Well, with a halogen bulb, you
  • might think, "Ok, it's just going to
  • go out after a while".
  • That's not quite the case.
  • Halogen bulbs are going to decrease
  • in output over their lifespan
  • until they finally go out.
  • This is actually why if you go in
  • the store and look at halogen bulbs
  • on the shelf, they'll say 30%
  • more output.
  • They're not saying that the bulbs
  • themselves are brighter, they're
  • saying that they're brighter than
  • your worn out bulbs in
  • your vehicle. They've actually been
  • sued for this type of marketing.
  • It's a little misleading.
  • All bulbs that are brand new halogen
  • bulbs are going to be about the same
  • output level
  • and you
  • can improve your output if you
  • replace your worn bulbs.
  • That applies to HIDs to some degree
  • as well.
  • So with HIDs, assuming you've
  • got a good ballast, it
  • should keep running forever., But
  • the bulbs, the actual electrodes,
  • are going to actually wear down over
  • time and they're going to spread
  • out, so that it
  • takes more power and there's more
  • resistance in generating that arc.
  • What that will do, is decrease the
  • output drastically, and it might
  • color shift or fade it to
  • a bluish type color.
  • So, there's a lot of vehicles now
  • with HIDs from
  • the 2000's, and a lot of people come
  • to me asking, "Well, my HID aren't
  • as bright as they used to be."
  • The best thing to do, is just try
  • new bulbs.
  • Because, if somehow those bulbs
  • are still running, you know eventually
  • the arc won't be able to be
  • maintained and it might flicker keep
  • igniting.
  • But if that thing's still running,
  • it might be really dim, and a
  • bluish color, and you can fix that
  • with a new set of bulbs.
  • With LED's, these
  • do also degrade over
  • time. Now a good LED, that's
  • running at the correct operating
  • temperature, should
  • last for decades. But, with high
  • power LEDs, if they're
  • running too hot, or if there's too
  • much power going through them, they
  • will quickly degrade so
  • that the output today might
  • be way more than the output 3 years
  • from now after a lot of use.
  • This
  • is a huge factor for cities buying
  • streetlights. They can't have the
  • light actually less output
  • only 2 years later.
  • They have to make sure 10, 15
  • years, 20 years down the road,
  • they're going to be getting the
  • same amount of output.
  • This is something called "lumen
  • maintenance", and it's a big factor
  • in LED design.
  • Unfortunately, the majority of that
  • led bulbs on the market, are running
  • way too hot, and
  • they will degrade after only a
  • couple of months of use.
  • There's only a couple of good ones
  • out there that are going to maintain
  • a nice cool
  • operation for the chips, so that
  • they'll maintain the output for
  • years and years of use. So, we
  • talked about how light is emitted,
  • now what determines the color of
  • that light? Well with HIDs, its
  • going to be determined by the halide salt mixture
  • in the capsule itself.
  • That's that yellow stuff, if
  • you look at an HID bulb.
  • This will evaporate and actually
  • allow that arc
  • to be generated inside of it. And
  • that's going to determine the
  • wavelengths of color that are
  • generated by this arc-type bulb
  • running. Just
  • like fluorescent bulbs, HID bulbs
  • are going to generate spikes of
  • color, and we'll put something up
  • show that. The colors generated
  • are going to be a lot of UV
  • light as well.
  • And that's why we have this second
  • tube around it, so you
  • might have heard how
  • the bluer in HID bulb is,
  • the less real output you get.
  • And there's definitely truth to
  • that, because as you shift more
  • towards blue, you also put more
  • of the energy into that ultraviolet
  • wavelength that's just gonna get
  • blocked, and of course is not
  • visible.
  • So to get the most output,
  • you want to use a nice pure
  • white color with HIDs.
  • I'd recommend no higher than 6000K.
  • Now with LEDs, we
  • only have one choice.
  • Unlike HIDs, where we had all the
  • colors under the sun, we only really
  • have one choice of color
  • with most LED bulbs.
  • Normally it's gonna be around 6000K,
  • and that's just because that's where
  • the LED chips are produced.
  • If you look at a factory vehicle on
  • the road, OEM LEDs
  • are just always made at that
  • 6000K level.
  • Now with cheaper LEDs, you
  • might notice that they use bluer
  • or chips or something.
  • And that's because, with the way
  • LEDs are manufactured, it's actually
  • more expensive, and less
  • efficient the more and more white
  • we get them. So that's why
  • all the first LED in
  • the early, or later
  • 2000's were a really bluish white,
  • and nowadays, we can finally get
  • warm white LEDs everywhere.
  • It just takes more materials
  • and it's harder to get a lot of
  • output with a warm white color
  • versus cool white.
  • So still, with cheaper LED
  • bulbs that don't use automotive
  • chips, you might get really bluish
  • color output even with
  • Cree LEDs, these are going to be
  • well controlled. They're not
  • automotive, so there might be more
  • variation, and of course this
  • COB type, these are basically
  • custom made.
  • And those are usually going to be
  • really poor in color performance.
  • If you get good bulbs with
  • automotive style LED chips on them,
  • you should have great color
  • uniformity over the life of
  • the bulb.
  • So with the light that we're
  • generating what's going to determine
  • the total output or the intensity
  • of that light and where
  • it's shining from?
  • Well if you look at our halogen once
  • again, we know it's based around
  • that filament coil, and it's a very
  • specific amount of lumens
  • or total output that has to come out
  • of a halogen bulb.
  • When we compare that to HID,
  • the HID is going to generate
  • nominally about 3200
  • lumens for a good
  • 35W bulb.
  • And that's one important thing.
  • For our cheaper ballasts, they're
  • just not going to output 35W
  • to the bulb, so you might only have
  • 2000-2500 lumens.
  • With a good HD,
  • we're gonna have 3200 lumens coming
  • from this arc. And we can see
  • the arc has been designed to sit
  • exactly where that filament is.
  • The problem with this, is that the
  • arc is still a little bit taller
  • and a little bit wider than that
  • filament. So it's not
  • exactly in focus but it is
  • centered where it's supposed to be.
  • The main issue, when it comes to
  • output performance with HIDs,
  • and glare, is that there is way more
  • output.
  • So 3200 lumens compared
  • to usually about 1500 lumens
  • here. Double the output from the
  • same point, a little bit bigger,
  • means much more light
  • that your headlamp might not be able
  • to gather, collect, and
  • focus properly.
  • Now when it comes to LEDs, the
  • big issue is that there's just a
  • huge amount of variance.
  • So if we look at cheaper
  • style of LED here,
  • we can see it is the COB type
  • chip.
  • So this is a much bigger emitting
  • area here, compared to our filament,
  • and it might only be about
  • 1200 lumens.
  • So the output isn't higher
  • and it's out of focus, which is
  • basically horrible in both
  • cases.
  • So with something like this,
  • we're just going to end up with
  • something that's a blob of light on
  • the wall, and dimmer
  • than your original halogen.
  • So with LEDs, we need to fix that by
  • at least using chips that
  • are designed to be the exact same
  • size and intensity as that
  • filament in the halogen bulb.
  • So here we have nice
  • ZES LEDs.
  • They're designed to be the same size
  • as this filament and
  • we're going to make sure that this
  • bulb is running with high enough
  • power to match, or exceed
  • the output, of the halogen bulb.
  • So here, with the Diode Dynamics
  • SL1, we had a true measured
  • 1700 lumens of output,
  • and the halogen with about 1500
  • lumens, means we're going to get
  • increased output with the same
  • nice focus.
  • Now the last thing I'll mention with
  • LED output, is that you'll see
  • ratings of 10,000 lumen LEDs,
  • 5,000 lumen LEDs.
  • Is it one bulb, is it two bulbs?
  • They don't really say.
  • And that's one thing to be very wary
  • of when it comes to output
  • performance ratings.
  • These bulb manufacturers very rarely
  • actually measure the output of the
  • bulb. They'll just look at the chips
  • on them and basically give it a
  • guesstimate on what
  • you can expect.
  • It's very very rare to see
  • any LED bulb actually
  • outputting more than about
  • 1,600-1,700 lumens.
  • There are some that are brighter,
  • but normally they're going to use
  • bigger chips on them, then too,
  • in order to get the heat out of
  • those chips.
  • So you might find things that are
  • brighter, but they're not going
  • to be focused, meaning that
  • brightness doesn't matter.
  • But just be very wary when you see
  • ratings from people and ask, "Did
  • they actually measure it?" We're
  • fortunate to have facilities here
  • where we can actually put these in
  • something called an "integrating
  • sphere" and measure that output,
  • so we know what the true ou tput of
  • the LEDs, the HIDs, and the halogen,
  • really is.
  • If someone's not measuring it, then
  • it's just guesses or recommendations
  • from the manufacturer.
  • In most cases, it's just marketing
  • info and not correct.
  • Now we've looked at all this
  • information on the differences
  • of the technology itself, but how is
  • it gonna actually apply to your
  • vehicle? Now, as we mentioned, the
  • focal point, the geometry, and the
  • design of your headlamp, is going to
  • play a major factor.
  • But another big factor is the
  • electrical system on your vehicle.
  • So especially on newer vehicles,
  • all the electronics are powered
  • through the BCM or Body Control
  • Module of the vehicle, not
  • through just a relay and a fuse.
  • And that means they might have a
  • flickering signal they might be
  • monitoring the power going to
  • the bulb.
  • In most cases that's really helpful.
  • For a halogen bulb, we can actually
  • sense when the coil is breaking
  • down, and the vehicle can know
  • when the bulb is going to be out
  • soon, just because there's more and
  • more resistance as that filament
  • breaks down.
  • So it's great, but when we look at
  • putting HID or LED into that,
  • it might not work perfectly.
  • Now HID uses a lot of power
  • when it starts up.
  • It's because that ignition that we
  • mentioned. It might draw in
  • 7, 8, 10 amps of power right when it
  • starts up, and that alone can cause
  • some issues especially on older
  • vehicles.
  • For that reason, you'll see relays
  • used a lot, to basically add new
  • wiring, to deliver enough power
  • straight from the battery, for the
  • HID system.
  • There's not really that problem with
  • LEDs, because we're only going to be
  • drawing maybe 20-30 watts,
  • at most.
  • And we don't have that spike of
  • power going into them.
  • That's the big key.
  • So we don't really need to worry
  • about bulking up or beefing
  • up our wiring on the vehicle, but
  • with both of these systems, the
  • other half is that monitoring,
  • or the flickering signal.
  • So with HIDs, some of them now
  • have built in big
  • warning cancers or error cancers,
  • you might see.
  • They'll be called CANBUS,
  • very commonly.
  • And all this is, is basically going
  • to smooth out that power
  • signal before it goes to the HID.
  • Even with this, sometimes
  • that initial surge of power
  • might be too much and it might trip
  • up the vehicle system.
  • It's most common on a lot of Dodge
  • vehicles these days where it can be
  • really tricky.
  • So you can buy extra a little
  • adapters, CANBUS adapters they're
  • called, to fix that.
  • Again it just gets more complicated
  • with HIDs.
  • But, if you find something that's
  • designed for your vehicle, that's
  • what you know should work.
  • With LEDs, you might still
  • need that from time to time, most
  • commonly with flickering signals.
  • So if the vehicle is sending a
  • flickering signal to the bulb, you
  • still need to add an extra adapter
  • of some sort, to smooth that out.
  • Again, check it out
  • for your vehicle, but in most cases,
  • it's not going to be quite as
  • complicated as what you need to do
  • for HID setups.
  • Now finally, let's see how these
  • really compare in a couple of
  • headlights.
  • Now as I mentioned, it really
  • depends on your specific vehicle and
  • headlight design to determine
  • the best choice for you.
  • But there are two major differences
  • in halogen headlamps.
  • The first design you'll see is
  • reflector.
  • And that is when we have a light
  • source that then shines into a bunch
  • of mirrors, just bouncing
  • once into the road.
  • That's very common, it's the
  • cheapest type of headlight to
  • produce, but these days, with
  • advanced computer design, we can get
  • really nice output patterns.
  • The other type of headlamp is known
  • as a projector headlamp, and that
  • uses a lens.
  • We actually have just a projector
  • right here. So you'll see the lens
  • on the front of it.
  • But inside we put our
  • bulb, and then there's a bowl
  • around it. This is going to be a
  • parabolic reflector, and it's
  • going to function to essentially
  • collect as much light as possible
  • and shine it forward into the lens
  • to be distributed.
  • So as you'll see, we can more
  • effectively collect more of the
  • light with a design like this
  • and let's check out now how these
  • compare with LED and HID
  • installed in each.
  • All right, we've got our Dodge Ram
  • headlight here. This is a reflector
  • style headlight.
  • As you can see, with a nice mirrored
  • surfaces in here.
  • Now for these tests, we're going to
  • be using a lux meter and just
  • showing you the peak intensity, but
  • we're going to look at the whole
  • beam pattern as well.
  • We're going to keep our cameras
  • setting solid, just set
  • the same level, so you can get a
  • nice comparison.
  • So we've got our halogen to start
  • here. When we turn this on,
  • we can see we've got a nice hot spot
  • in the middle, and width on both
  • sides.
  • The max lux that we've measured from
  • this distance is 1190.
  • Now I switched over to the HID, and
  • when I light this up, you can see
  • how long this is going to take to
  • start up. So, of course some,
  • ballasts are going to take longer
  • than others, but we can see the back
  • here. Now as it warms up, it's going
  • to shift from a bluish up to a
  • whitish color as well.
  • So we'll let this get up to full
  • operating brightness, and then we'll
  • measure the lux here too.
  • So now it's fully bright, and we
  • measured it, and we've got
  • 1580 lux.
  • So that's a big improvement from our
  • halogen reading, but
  • the problem is, we have more light
  • everywhere now.
  • And that includes extra glare
  • above our cutoff pattern.
  • So with reflectors, there's
  • just no real good way of controlling
  • that extra glare, because
  • we don't have any type of shield
  • like we'll see in the projector.
  • So reflectors with HIDs, we have
  • to be very careful because not only
  • are we shining more light in the hot
  • spot, we are also shining more
  • light above it and creating glare
  • for other drivers.
  • Now let's take a look at the LED.
  • Next we have our Cree LED
  • installed., and these aren't even
  • the worst type of bulbs like the
  • COB, but they're
  • so out of focus still with that
  • bigger Cree LED on it.
  • In this case you can see, we
  • don't have any hotspot anymore.
  • It's really just blurry and just out
  • of focus.
  • So on this, we only have
  • 840 lux, which is a big downgrade
  • from halogen.
  • So when it comes to LED bulbs, the
  • first step is, you want
  • to make sure you're getting a good LED bulb
  • that's focused.
  • Next we're gonna be doing the
  • Diode Dynamics SL1, and we'll see
  • how this performs.
  • So when we light this up, you
  • can see immediately a huge
  • difference in
  • the quality of these two different LED bulbs.
  • This is the Diode Dynamcis SL1, which
  • is using nice
  • high intensity chips arranged
  • perfectly with really good focus.
  • And the result is clear, we have a
  • nice strong hot spot and that hot
  • spot is actually
  • 1660 lux, which
  • is higher than the HID in this headlight.
  • And that was a good HID.
  • Of course, it's a
  • 35W HID. If we go to a higher power
  • HID like 55W, we
  • might get more output from the HID,
  • but, again without HID,
  • we'll get more glare.
  • In this case, because the LED is
  • so well focused, we get
  • a huge increase in output without
  • added glare like the HID.
  • So in most newer reflector housing,s
  • the LED, a
  • well-designed LED, is going
  • to be your best bet. So now we've
  • got our projector headlight here.
  • And when we flip this on you
  • can see, big difference from
  • reflector to projector
  • headlights in the way the beam pattern
  • looks.
  • Mainly because we've got a cut off
  • shield that's going to block any
  • light from going over that cutoff
  • line. With our halogen bulb
  • installed here,
  • You can see we've got a nice very
  • even pattern.
  • There's no real strong hotspot,
  • but there is a hot center
  • point in this projector pattern.
  • And from that, we are getting
  • 760 lux with our measurement here.
  • Now let's go to HID, and
  • see how it looks. All right we're
  • gonna flip on our HID, and
  • you can see, again, it's gonna take
  • a couple seconds to get up to full
  • brightness, but you can see, we
  • maintain the nice beam pattern.
  • The
  • projector is really going to maintain the overall cutoff no
  • matter what we put in it.
  • So the next thing we have to look
  • at, is how intense the
  • whole pattern is. And with an HID
  • installed, you can see, really
  • nice pattern as we get the full
  • brightness here, and we have 800 lux
  • total. So, 10-15%
  • brighter than that original halogen
  • bulb.
  • We maintain the whole pattern pretty
  • nicely with this setup.
  • Now let's try out our LEDs.
  • Starting with that Cree-style LED
  • with a bigger chip.
  • We turn this on, you can see, yes,
  • we have a cut off, but there's
  • no hotspot at all anymore.
  • And when we measure it, we only get
  • 280 lux.
  • So, that's half the output from that
  • original halogen. These bulbs are
  • huge downgrade.
  • So again, the LED bulbs,
  • it really depends on the quality of
  • the LED bulb. Let's put it a good
  • one, our Diode Dynamics SL1, and
  • see how it does.
  • So, when we have an LED
  • installed on this headlight, with good
  • focus, you can see, our hotspot
  • returns.
  • And on this one, we have 780 lux,
  • which is a slight upgrade from
  • our halogen performance.
  • Of course, with the LED, we'll get
  • much more lifespan, and
  • the modern color as well, compared
  • to halogen.
  • This is going to really vary
  • based on your projector.
  • Good projectors are going to have
  • really high lux with halogen.
  • So this one is a Honda, they
  • have decent projectors.
  • Subarus not
  • nearly as good. But in many cases,
  • HID might
  • be a better choice in some
  • projectors, as LED continues
  • to catch up. So, what you can expect
  • for projector headlights, is that
  • LED bulbs will be a
  • slight upgrade from halogen, with
  • all the features of LED.
  • HID, it's a complex system, but
  • it might give you better performance
  • in projectors.
  • As we said, for reflectors LED
  • is the absolute best choice, because
  • of the better focus.
  • So as you can see, there's a lot of
  • factors to consider when choosing
  • LED or HID, especially
  • depending on which type of headlamp you have, and
  • the
  • quality of the design of your headlamp. Or,
  • just the convenience and lifespan
  • that you're looking for, for
  • your solution.
  • You can find more information at
  • DiodeDynamics.com or feel
  • free to contact us.
  • Thanks for watching.

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Check out the SL1 LED Headlight Bulbs here: https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-bulbs/sl1-led-headlight.html?utm_source=youtube

Shopping for the best and brightest headlight bulbs? If so, you might have wondered: Is HID better than LED? Watch to find out!

In this video, we highlight the important differences between LED and HID headlights, and explain why you might choose one bulb technology over the other. Though many companies selling HID and LED headlight kits claim their bulbs are the brightest, choosing the best headlight upgrade for your vehicle isn't quite that simple.

One of the primary factors in comparing HID headlight conversions to LED headlight conversions is the bulb design itself. To help you buy the best headlight bulbs possible, this video features an in-depth explanation of some important differences between HID and LED headlight bulbs.

Additionally, reflector and projector headlights use different technologies to harness the light output from your headlight bulbs. When comparing HID versus LED headlight bulbs, it's important to consider what kind of headlights the bulbs will be going into.